Pet info /FAQs

 

We would always suggest speaking to us if you have any questions because every scenario and pet is different, but we have some standard bits of information and answers to frequently asked questions that may help you.

Chooosing your puppy/kitten/rabbit

  • Don’t rush this decision, research the breed/type prior to purchasing so you know what to expect and what particular characteristics to look for when seeing the puppy/kitten. It is important to consider specific genetic challenges certain breeds can have.
  • Consider rehoming an older animal
  • Ideally buy from a recommended breeder, try and avoid buying from puppy farms or pet shops. By purchasing from poor establishments you further encourage more litters to be bred.
  • Ensure you see the mother and father of the puppies/kittens in their home environment. Do not agree to meet in car parks or other bizarre environments to collect the puppy/kitten
  • All puppies and kittens should have received flea and worm treatment prior to going to new homes, make a note of these details
  • It is often a good idea to choose a puppy/kitten who is out going and confident and ideally the whole litter should look like ‘peas in a pod’ a large disparity in size of the litter mates can indicate medical problems
  • Your puppy should be microchipped by the breeder prior to collection. It is now the law for all puppies to be microchipped by 8 weeks of age (there is a £1000 fine if your dog is not microchipped) Many kittens will also microchipped, however if this is not the case we would recommend to do this at the time of vaccination or neutering.

Bedding

  • Are you using a crate? Is the breed of animal known for chewing? What surface is the bed going to be on? What is the ambient temperature of the room the puppy/kitten going to be using
  • Do you need a covered hot water bottle for comfort for the first few nights for the puppy/kitten

Feeding

  • Usually the breeder will supply a small bag of the puppy food so that the diet can remain consistent throughout the new home process, this reduces the risk of stress diarrhoea.
  • Consider what diet you want to continue you with. There are many brands available, dry food versus wet food, kibble versus raw fed, the most important thing is to ensure you are feeding an age and breed appropriate diet that is meeting the required nutritional needs of your pet.

Preparing to bring your new pet home

  • Ensure you can continue feeding the same diet at least for the first couple of weeks
  • Ensure you can travel your kitten/puppy safely, the best way is in an animal carrier when they are small.
  • Have suitable bedding, feed bowels, water bowels, leads, toys, litter trays, puppy pads ready
  • Discuss and set ground rules prior to collecting the puppy/kitten eg what rooms is the new addition going to be allowed to use. Do you need to get a crate?
  • Make yourself familiar with house training regimes
  • Choose and register with a vet
  • It can be a good idea to take a blanket and leave at the breeders establishment when you go to view the puppy/kitten so that when you collect them they have a blanket with familiar smells on.

Excersise

  • Considering exercise requirements for both dogs and cats is important.
  • Your puppy should not leave the garden until at least 1 week after the completion of the primary vaccination course.

Your puppy can meet other healthy,  fully vaccinated dogs in your garden  1 week after their first vaccination as it is important to start socialisation for your puppy.

  • Teach your puppy (or kitten) to walk on a lead, often a harness is a more secure way to initiate this training
  • Begin with short walks, taking frequent breaks
  • Increase the length of walk gradually
  • Avoid walking in particularly hot or cold parts of the day
  • Walk somewhere that is safe and comfortable on your puppy’s paws
  • Consider signing up for puppy training classes to help bonding, to entertain and stimulate your puppy and ultimately have a dog who is a pleasure to take for walks.
  • Kittens should not go outside until full recovery from neutering

Travel

Since 1st Jan 2021 UK issued Pet passports are no longer valid, and for all non-commercial travel for your dog, cat or ferret you must travel with an Animal Health Certificate (AHC) or on a European issued (and up to date) Pet Passport.

Animal Health Certificates are required to travel into all EU countries including Northern Ireland, they must be issued by an Official Veterinarian (OV) within 10 days of travel and last for 4 months.

To travel into Northern Ireland, Ireland, Malta or Finland you must have an AHC and your pet must receive a tapeworm treatment within 5 days of travel and this must be recorded on the AHC. The Northern Ireland situation is changing almost weekly so please check the APHA regularly for up to date advice.

 

 

How to get an Animal Health Certificate:

 

  1. Completion of an AHC takes approximately 1 hour and must be booked at least 2 weeks prior to the AHC being required with an OV (Gemma)
  2. Your pet must have a Microchip
  3. Your pet requires a Rabies Vaccination at least 21 days before an AHC can be issued, the microchip must be recorded as checked at this vaccination- evidence is required.
  4. Please inform the practice of the following details at least 1 wk before your appointment for the AHC
  • Full Name, Address and Telephone number of person travelling with the pet
  • Country that you are ENTERING the EU
  • Date of travel
  • Microchip number of pet
  • Pet details eg breed, age, sex

 

 

What must be brought to the AHC appointment:

 

  • The person who is travelling with the pet must be present at the appointment to sign documents. This can be the owner, a nominated person or a person from a transport company. However the owner must be reunited with the pet within 5 days of travel if the pet is not travelling with the owner.
  • Evidence of Microchip insertion, or checking of microchip at time of rabies vaccination. Valid documents are: Pet Passport issued prior to 31.12.2020, vaccination card with dated and vet signature of check of microchip, animal’s clinical history from your vet with written conformation that shows microchip was checked.
  • Evidence of valid Rabies Vaccination at least 21 days before. Valid Documents: Pet Passport issued prior to 31.12.2020, Vaccination Card, Clinical History

Travel back into the UK must be within 4 months and as before a Clinical Examination by a European vet and a tapeworm treatment must be administered between 5 days and 24hrs before returning to the UK

Vaccination

  • Dogs: Puppies should receive at least 2 doses of primary vaccinations. We use Nobivac. Our recommended vaccination protocol is:
    • 1st Vaccine DHP + L4 (L2 on request) at 8weeks
    • 2nd Vaccine DHP at 10 weeks
    • 3rd Vaccination L4 (or L2 on request) and KC at 12 weeks
    • Then yearly boosters
  • Cats:
    • 1st Vaccine FeLV and Tricat at 8-9 weeks
    • 2nd Vaccine FeLV and Tricat at 12 weeks
    • Then yearly boosters
  • Rabbits:
    • Nobivac Myxo-RHD Plus from 7 weeks (includes VHD 1 and 2 strains)
    • Then yearly boosters

Neutering

  • At Belvoir Vets we strongly recommend the neutering of companion animals (dogs, cats and rabbits) for reasons of population control.
  • However, the decision as to whether and when to neuter the individual animal needs to consider species, sex, breed, age, any medical or behavioural considerations and future health status.
  • We will discuss your pets specific options and recommendations at the teenager check when your pet is 6 months old.

Keyhole Spay

What is a Keyhole Spay?

Under General Anaesthesia 2 small ‘ports’ are made into the abdomen which is inflated with gas, the ovaries are then identified and removed via the small ports. This results in a complete spaying technique with lower pain and a shorter recovery period.

 

This laprascopic technique can also be used for cryptorchid (retained) testicles, liver and pancreatic biopsies and laprascopic assisted gastropexy to prevent twisted stomach in giant breeds.

 

Advantages:

 

  • Considerably LESS pain associated with surgery, recorded as 65% less pain.
  • Quicker recovery, 3 days rest compared to 10 days rest
  • Reduced post operative wound complications compared to a traditional spay
  • The ovaries are removed via a electrocautery technique which produces less pain than the traditional suture ties and cutting/tearing of the ovarian ligament.

 

Other Considerations:

    • Keyhole spaying only removes the ovaries, reducing surgical trauma compared to the traditional ovarhysterectomy where the ovaries and uterus are removed. The uterus gradually reduces in size.
    • Keyhole spaying is currently only suitable dogs over 8 kgs
    • Keyhole spaying should be performed either pre-season or 3 months after a season.
    • Keyhole spaying is only suitable for dogs under 3 years of age
    • 10% Discounts from the Healthy Pet Scheme Apply
    • Keyhole spaying is more expensive than a traditional technique
    • There is a large area of hair that is required to be clippe

Diets

TBC

Diets

TBC

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